"Did you know that if you stare into the eyes of the Užupis Mermaid, you will be under her spell and you will stay in this place forever?" Jolanta, my Lithuanian friend asked me.
"Mermaid? They have mermaid here?" I looked around excitedly. You know, mermaid is my favourite mythical creature besides unicorn and I have always wanted to be one when I was a kid. Few people could have guessed it when they saw my red hair.
Jolanta smiled mysteriously and said, "Let's meet her. But I can not help if you fall under her spell".
Previously, Jolanta has asked me whether any particular places I wanted to visit in Vilnius and I promptly replied I'd really love to visit the Republic of Užupis! Once home to a Jewish population decimated by Holocaust, this creative community of artists, musicians, and intellectuals declared independence from Lithuania in 1997. The residents celebrate their independence day annually on April 1 (yes, intentionally on April Fool's Day) and they named it the Užupis day. Despite its tiny area of less than 1 sq km within the Lithuanian capital of Vilnius, Užupis has its own president, government, currency, and interesting constitution. The President of the Republic of Užupis, Romas Lileikis himself is a poet, musician, and film director.
Fun fact: you can even get a visa stamped into your passport at their 'immigration office'. Let's cross the bridge to find out, shall we?
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| artsy piece everywhere |
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| the Mermaid of Užupis |
It began to drizzle when I walked on the bridge over the Vilnia River but it didn't slow me down. Jolanta pointed something under the bridge and there I was, face to face with the mermaid that she was talking about. The bronze mermaid was created by sculptor Romas Vilčiauskas and the local believe it's her who lures all the visitors from around the world. Those who surrender to her charm will remain in Užupis forever. The bare-chested, fish-tailed lady stared blankly into my eyes and I was expecting something to happen. I don't know...maybe I would turn into a stone? Wait a sec, I think I misunderstood the mermaid with Medusa's spell. I kept looking at her eyes for another minute, still nothing happened. Maybe she didn't want another mermaid to live there? I shrugged my shoulders and continued walking.
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| main square |
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| the Angel of Užupis |
Just a few minutes walking from the bridge and we already arrived at the central square where I saw a 9 metres high statue of Archangel Gabriel. The bronze Angel was also created by sculptor Romas Vilčiauskas and erected on the square in 2002. It's the Angel of Užupis, a symbol of growth and rebirth with his trumpet indicating a new free thinking age for the nation. The creative community also created their own version of holidays. One of them is the Day of White Tablecloths that celebrates around Easter. It is when the residents gather together at an outdoor terrace to share their Easter dinner leftovers. There's also the Days of Wind when they have concerts and events to keep their spirit up during the cold depressing winter in November. They sounds like a super fun people to be around, don't you think?
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| a republic where a dog has a right to be a dog |
If the mermaid can't convince you to stay then maybe their quirky constitution can. The constitution's 41 clauses has translated into more than 70 languages since it was created in July 1998. Dozens of the constitution in various languages are printed on large mirrored rectangles and hangs along the road known as the Avenue of Constitution.
Here's the clauses:
1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnele, and the River Vilnele has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need.
14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.
15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.
16. Everyone has the right to be happy.
17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
18. Everyone has the right to be silent.
19. Everyone has the right to have faith.
20. No one has the right to violence.
21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance.
22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.
23. Everyone has the right to understand.
24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.
26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
28. Everyone may share what they possess.
29. No one can share what they do not possess.
30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
31. Everyone may be independent.
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.
33. Everyone has the right to cry.
34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.
36. Everyone has the right to be individual.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.
39. Do not defeat.
40. Do not fight back.
41. Do not surrender.
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| the Avenue of Constitution and the flag symbol |
A blue hand with a hole in the middle is the symbol of the Užupis flag which was designed by Valdas Neimantas and there's 4 different colours for every season. It is interpreted in many ways...most popular is that the palm symbolise friendship and the hole means the whole world which becomes not so important if you have a friend. The hole is also supposed to mean that it's unable to accept bribes or they have nothing to hide in their hands.
How to get to Užupis?
There's actually some borders to enter this tiny republic from Vilnius and Jolanta took me to Uzupio Undinele or the main bridge. It was merely 5 minutes easy stroll from St. Anne's church in the Old Town of Vilnius towards the river. After crossing the bridge you will come across this red brick cafe (above picture) with an Užupis flag on it. If you want to get your passport stamped, head to the narrow path next to this cafe and walked until you find the souvenir shop a.k.a immigration office. Sadly it was closed when I got there so no passport stamp for me 😭
Would I recommend you to visit Užupis?
Well if you are keen of bohemian vibes, laid-back atmosphere, free thoughts and smart jokes then it could be your Disneyland-kind-of place. It's good to know that despite living in this getting-too-crazy-too-chaos-too-fake world, there's this little dot where we can relax for a while, not to take life too seriously and be ourself. Heck, even a dog has the right to be a dog and everyone has the right to be happy....or unhappy if they wish so! I can't think of any country with a better constitution than this.
I'm signing off now to pack and to move to Užupis with all my doggos!
